SAN FERMÍN: THE GREAT FIESTA
    

San Fermin is crazy, an indescribable emotion. ON 6th of July, at twelve midday, thousands of young people congregate in the Town Hall square. Many other people concentrate in the Plaza del Castillo or in the nearby streets to jump for joy when the Rocket is fired (Chupinazo) and with the “Viva San Fermín, Gora San Fermín” (long live San Fermin).

The city goes mad, champagne flows. Dressed in white, everyone ties, as best they can, a red scarf around their neck. Awaiting them are 9 days of joy, wildness, bulls, bull running, music, fireworks... The fiestas are so long awaited that the people from Navarre sing “1 de enero, 2 de febrero, 3 de marzo..” (1st of January, 2nd of February, 3rd of March) throughout the year. On these days, called the “staircase” groups of people or peñas celebrate the fact that San Fermin is getting nearer.

 

ON 7th July, Pamplona will be moved by the procession of San Fermin and the day of the Child, where the young children take flowers to the saint.

San Fermín is all over Pamplona. The days are animated and full of light, bustling terraces. The procession of giants and big heads are fun for the small children. Jotas, regional dances, salsa, painters, sellers, and mime take hold of the streets.

 The bull fighting is around five o’clock. Bull fighting fans come to see the best bull fighters and herds, and also the young people from the different clubs or peñas, with towels, hats, buckets of sangría, and elaborate meals to be eaten after the third bull. For them, the least important part is what is happening in the bull ring.

At 11 o’clock at night, the magic of the fireworks begins, lit from the Citadel. And afterwards, everyone is ensured a good time. Dressed in white, with a red scarf, there is street music to dance to, people from all over the world who want to enjoy themselves, bars open non stop... an incredible atmosphere.

However, everything ends on 14th July in the Town Hall square with two songs. One sad song “Pobre de mí, pobre de mí que se han acabado las fiestas de San Fermín” (Poor me, the San Fermin Fiestas have ended) and one cheerful one that makes everyone dance “Ya falta menos, ya falta menos, p’a San Fermín” (The next San Fermin festival is getting closer).

  
EL ENCIERRO
   
It’s just a few minutes to eight o’clock. At the Cuesta de Santo Domingo (the slope of Santo Domingo), holding a rolled newspaper, the runners face the black Saint’s statue. They sing to him three times “A San Fermín, pedimos, por ser nuestro patrón, nos guíe en el encierro, dándonos su bendición” (We ask San 

Fermin, our patron saint, to guide us in the bull running, by giving us his blessing). A few seconds after the last song, the rocket is fired and the cattle pen doors open. Navarre holds its breath.

With force and strength, the bulls come out onto the 848 metre fenced route: Town Hall Square, Mercaderes, Estafeta. The bulls each weigh around half a ton, with sharp horns and power in their stately figure. Another rocket informs everyone that the bulls have left the pen.

Surrounded by runners, the animals advance. Some slip up, others butt in the direction of the pavements. The mozos or young men run, jumping over anyone who has fallen over; if a bull turns back along the route they do everything possible to make it go in the right direction. If everything goes OK, in three minutes’ time the bulls reach the ring and a rocket is fired when the last bull enters the ring. They are taken to the bull pens. The final rocket is fired and the whole of Navarre breaths again.

Thousands of people from Navarre, lovers of the bull running, come to see it live or, wherever they are, they get up to see it on the television. They passionately follow an exciting encierro or bull running which is in response to a medieval custom when the cattle farmers used to bring the bulls over the hills for the bull fights. At dawn, on the day of the bullfight, with the help of the shepherds, tame cows and leading oxen, they would take the bulls through the streets towards the Square used for the bull fighting. Back in the 19C the Pamplonicas or people from Pamplona began to run in front of the animals, creating a rite that is still maintained today.

Experienced runners have a good night’s sleep, they train and know what to do. The greatest danger is not the bull, but the many incautious people who want to run but are still under the effects of alcohol. Many have not ever seen a bull in their life. In all, thirteen people have died in the bull running with more than 200 people gored. So, take care, if you’re not an expert runner, it’s best to stay behind the fence or watch on TV.